Jun 23

Re-inventing the Electric Baseboard

When you first see the new Linear Convection heater next to a conventional electric baseboard, you’ll likely be struck by how small it is.  It is up to 42% smaller than a conventional baseboard, but that’s just the start of the story.  We’ve all gotten used to the idea that things like computers and MP3 players get smaller every time a new one is introduced.  However, when something has been around in the same form for 50 years, it’s generally thought that the status-quo is good enough.  This was the case with the electric baseboard until Dimplex took a long, hard look at it about three years ago with a view to setting a new standard.

We started from a blank page and looked at every possible way to improve performance.  Using powerful computers and computer fluid dynamics software, our engineers found the optimum shape for both the housing and the element blades that transfer the heat to the air.  The result of combining a top vent with an element blade that looks like a shark fin, is an air speed increase of 40%.  By moving that much air we could make the whole thing a lot smaller and also increase comfort for homeowners by pushing the heat faster and further into their room.

Conventional baseboards are notoriously slow, especially if used with a programmable thermostat.  It takes half the time of an old baseboard for a linear convector to bring a room back up to temperature after being setback to save energy.  We proved this and other energy saving features by building an air flow and heat loss visualization chamber – the only one of its kind in North America.  Using this room we were able to measure a 10% reduction in heat loss through a cold, outside wall.  This translates into immediate energy savings for homeowners.

It’s said that good things come in small packages and we’ve certainly proved that with the Linear Convector.  Homeowners will have more wall space for their furnishings, greater comfort, increased savings and less packaging to dispose of.  They’re also easier to install and better looking than conventional baseboards.  The bar has definitely been set high for the next 50 years.

*Thank you for your post and questions regarding Dimplex’s Linear Convectors. Due to the high volume of comments raising the same issues; please review the below information.

Please be advised that the Linear Convectors are CSA Certified SAFE, and are not a fire hazard if installed and used properly.

These are high performance heaters, delivering twice the heat per foot of conventional baseboard products, heating a room up to 40% faster. Due to the fact that these are a high performance heater, you may notice higher temperatures on the wall, however there is nothing to be concerned about as these units are all completely safe. If you are concerned about the wall temperature, we do have a spacer option available that will reduce the temperature of the wall down to that of a conventional baseboard. If this option is something you are interested in, please contact our customer service department and they will be more than happy to help you.

About the Author

Gary

has written 5 blog posts

I am the retail brand manager of Dimplex North America.

Comments (174)

  • Johanna on August 3rd, 2011 at 5:27pm

    Would a 9 x 10 bedroom be comfortable with one LC series heater mounted at the floor under the window?

    • Gary Kraemer on August 9th, 2011 at 12:50pm

      Yes. It’s just a question of how much wattage you need for that space. If the LC will be the only heat source in the room then the general rule of thumb is 10 watts per square foot. Since you have 90 square feet you need 900 watts, so you should round up to the 1,000 watt model. If the room is lightly insulated or above a garage, you could go one step further to the 1,250 watt model. On the other hand, if you are using the LC for supplemental heat only you could step down to the 750 watt model.

      All LC models are intended to be installed at floor level and your idea to position it under the window is a good one as it will act like a draft barrier.

  • Joyce on September 5th, 2011 at 12:47am

    Is this a substitute for the baseboard heater? It looks taller . How does it compare in cost? I am installing all new heaters (9) is the older model still energy efficient and economical?

    • chad on September 12th, 2011 at 12:39pm

      Hello Joyce,

      Yes this is a substitute for the baseboard heater, you can learn more here at our LPC Micro-site. http://heathatfits.com/

      Please let us know if you have any more questions.

  • Kimberly on September 28th, 2011 at 2:26am

    Can you use this with other baseboard heaters? My house is electric heat and I have multiple baseboard heaters on the same breaker. I would be putting it in a room but there will be other regular baseboard heaters on the same breaker.

    • chad on September 28th, 2011 at 3:54pm

      As long as the voltage of the new boards is compatible with the existing boards and wiring; the circuit onto which the heater is being installed has the amp capacity to take the complete
      heater load (with a 20% safety factor). The thermostat being used has the capacity to take the complete heater load. Our new heaters can be intermixed/used with other pre-existing baseboards.

  • Trevor on October 28th, 2011 at 4:34pm

    forgot to mention Noisier…these units buzz/hum when in operation

    • chad on November 1st, 2011 at 5:33pm

      Hello Trevor,

      Some units were shipped in early production that had a louder humming sound then allowable. These units have been identified and changes have been made to rectify the issues.
      Elements in all baseboard heaters are built with a helical electrical resistance wire that is surrounded in an electrical insulating powder and inserted in to an outer steel tube. When the heater is turned on a current is passed through the electrical resistance wire causing it to heat up. The current passing through the element also creates a small magnetic field which results in an oscillation of the element at the frequency of the alternating current electrical supply; North America uses a 60Hz AC electrical supply. In most cases this oscillation is barely audible and is normal

    • Trevor on January 16th, 2012 at 5:11pm

      can you provide me with the revised part#/seriel #’s or a list of the known Bad?
      how do I know if the stock at the store is of the revised kind? I need to replace my noisy 2500w unit. its driving us nuts.

    • chad on January 19th, 2012 at 8:02pm

      Hey Trevor,

      Thank you for your question, in order to fully understand your needs and provide help, we will require more information regarding the product, please contact our customer service department directly and they will be happy to assist you. http://dimplex.com/customer_support/contact_us

  • Mark on November 20th, 2011 at 5:44am

    I purchased 5 new LC linear convector heaters on November 10th 2011 and had an electrician friend install them. I am very disappointed with the amount of buzzing that comes from these new heaters. We had friends over for dinner and they asked us what that buzzing noise was. We even hear them over the TV. We had everything checked out by the electrician and seams that the thermostates and load are all OK. We exchanged one of the heaters and the replacement was just as loud. Is it possible that these heaters are from the early shipment? Do you have any recommendations for us?

    • chad on November 22nd, 2011 at 2:55pm

      Hello Mark,

      You can contact our tech department with this contact form – http://dimplex.com/customer_support/contact_us

      They will quickly respond to your issues.

    • Scott on January 19th, 2013 at 6:00pm

      Mark, my gf had three of the new Dimplex LPC installed and these are quiet. There should not be any noise whatsoever. Check to see if something other source is making the noise because there are no moving parts. The most difficult part for me is programming the controls because the controls are counter-intuitive and so are the directions. Will be working on this today.

    • Karyn on January 24th, 2013 at 3:39pm

      Hi Scott

      Thanks for the feedback regarding the LPC controls, I have sent it to our product and marketing team to take another look and see where we can make them more customer friendly.

  • Dave on November 22nd, 2011 at 1:31am

    What units were corrected for noise/hum? I have a 2000 watt model 6001540350
    Its loud. if there’s not a fix I will have to return it for a conventional model.

    • chad on November 22nd, 2011 at 2:54pm

      Hello Dave, you can contact our tech department with this contact form – http://dimplex.com/customer_support/contact_us

      They will quickly respond to your issues.

    • Dave on November 22nd, 2011 at 9:29pm

      So I called; and after a short wait , The woman on the other end, was familiar with the issue affecting 2000 and 2500 watt units. The store I got mine from is still waiting for the updated units so I will send in my sticker from the heater; its safe just noisey ; Dimplex will send a new one when they are ready. You have to open a case with them though. date code was 3011 on mine. At least I will still have heat until the new one arrives.

      Overall I’m pleased with the service!!

  • Bill on December 17th, 2011 at 4:58pm

    I just installed a 750 watt lc heater replacing a 1000 w old chromolox heater in a 9 X 9 bedroom.

    I am alarmed at the heat of the panelling above the heater. It will not allow you to keep
    your hand on the wall. It is too hot!

    It looks like this new design directs all the heat up the wall. IS THIS NOT A FIRE HAZARD?

    • chad on December 19th, 2011 at 3:02pm

      The LC Heater is designed specifically to top discharge heated air, resulting in 40% faster air flow, and quicker heating of your room. The product is CSA approved from a safety perspective and is in no way a fire hazard when used as outlined in the Operating Instructions.

  • Trace on December 21st, 2011 at 5:34am

    Refering to the issue of the wall getting hot, i am looking to replace the baseboard heater in my 2 year olds room, whould this unit be safe in a childs room, or is it a burn hazard?

    • chad on December 21st, 2011 at 8:09pm

      Hello Trace,

      When the LC Series heater is operating, it’s surface can become very hot.  It is recommended that caution be used whenever installing baseboards around children.  If you were able to previously operate a baseboard in the room safely, you shouldn’t have any problems with a new LC.

      Just exercise the same care as you did previously.

    • Scott on January 19th, 2013 at 6:04pm

      @Trace, my gf installed three Dimplex LPC baseboard heaters this week. The installer came back and put in 1/2 inch spacers and this cuts down on wall heat significantly. The spacers are hardened plastic-type material made for this application and will not melt or discolor. These spacers are installed between the heater and the wall. The space between the wall and the heater allow cool air to travel to help cut down over-heating.

  • charles marchand on December 26th, 2011 at 7:14pm

    Purchased a small 40 inches baseboard heater for my bedroom and am shocked at the noise level of this thing. The salesman at home depot garanteed the product to be virtually silent, but what I am hearing is a definetely audible metal humming (vibration?)
    I am putting back my old heater as I will not be able to sleep with that noise.

    • chad on December 29th, 2011 at 4:09pm

      Hi Charles, thank you for your comment regarding the humming noise you are noticing from your linear convector. Please contact our customer service department at 1-800-668-6663 as the salesman at Home Depot was correct and these units should not be making a humming noise. Our customer service department is able to help you with this issue. http://dimplex.com/customer_support/contact_us

  • Tom on December 29th, 2011 at 11:28pm

    I too recently bought a bunch of these or varying lengths. They all buzz. I will be calling customer service but I expect they will all have to be scrapped. I’m surprised these things

    • chad on January 5th, 2012 at 10:16pm

      Hey Tom,

      Thank you for your question, in order to fully solve your issues, please contact our customer service department directly and they will be happy to assist you with Stainless Steel Elements. 1-800-668-6663 or visit our page at http://dimplex.com/customer_support/contact_us

  • Cali on December 31st, 2011 at 7:49pm

    Having just purchased a dozen panel and linear convector heaters to replace my old baseboards, I was extremely frustrated in finding that 20% of the product shipped to me was damaged in some way (along with the fact that the linear convector being too noisy as the above comments identified). Dimplex would greatly improve their customer satisfaction by improving their boxing. Both the panel, but especially the linear, convectors would arrive more successfully if there were central foam supports instead of just at the corners so that they weren’t being crushed while being tossed about during shipping.

    • chad on January 5th, 2012 at 9:53pm

      Hello Cali,

      Thank you for your question, in order to fully solve your issues, please contact our customer service department directly and they will be happy to assist you with Stainless Steel Elements. 1-800-668-6663 or visit our page at http://dimplex.com/customer_support/contact_us

  • Tony on January 3rd, 2012 at 9:32pm

    I just had an electrician install 3 of the 1500 watt heaters (240 volts). I am impressed with the overall look of the baseboard heaters and that they give off so much heat. However, I am concern how hot my drywall gets since the heat shoots straight up. The drywall is extremely hot which others have pointed out. I would be afraid to leave these heaters on for an extended amount of time. I am aware of the solution to reduce the wall heat by 10 degrees C, but this build out would consist of cutting some wood to push this 5/8 inches from the wall. These instructions were not included with my purchase. The only way I found out about this was through this blog. I am not sure how that would look if this was done and if 10 degrees would add any relief.

    • chad on January 5th, 2012 at 9:49pm

      Hello Tony,

      Fundamentally the units are high performance heaters, and the level of heat output ( including heating of the wall) has been carefully measured (and CSA approved) to be within safe limits. The use of the shim does reduce wall heat by 10 degrees C, however, rendering your LC’s 10 degrees C safer than the current safe level is an action you can take if it makes you feel more comfortable.

  • Steve on January 3rd, 2012 at 11:38pm

    I am glad that I stumbled across this blog!

    I moved to a new house a few weeks ago and have been updating to the newer Dimplex heaters. My wife is very happy with how they look.

    My 2000 watt one was making buzzing noises, so I swapped it out for a 2500 watt that was destined for the basement. I took the 2000 watt one back to Home Depot and exchanged it for a new one.

    Unfortunately, the 2500 watt is having the same buzzing, though it seems a bit louder. As suggested above I’ll give Dimplex customer service a call.

    • chad on January 5th, 2012 at 10:16pm

      Hello Steve,

      Thank you for your question, in order to fully understand your needs and provide help, we will require more information regarding the product, please contact our customer service department directly and they will be happy to assist you.

    • Steve on January 6th, 2012 at 9:12pm

      Thought I would give an update …

      I spoke to a customer service rep who was extremely helpful. She iwas having a new heater shipped out.

      Great customer service!
      Thanks,
      Steve

  • Claude on January 5th, 2012 at 6:09am

    Urhg… I was kind of excited to find that newer model of electric baseboard (seeking the LC model)… I need to replace two old style electric baseboard 1250 and 2000w… The 2000w would be replace by a 2500w (3000w if it was available…).

    All the features look excellent like faster heating, smaller unit but I was really looking for noise information… as there is no mention of “silent design” or something like that… I am glad I found this blog…

    My old ones are making noise when they heat. The metal case makes noises. I have replaced the old mechanic thermostat with the newer triac thermostat but now it is even worst…

    I hear “tic tic tic… tic……. tic”, then a pause of 12 seconds and then again “tic tic tic… tic……. tic” since these new triac thermostat are working in cyclic mode to save energy… that is driving me crazy…

    But now I hesitate a lot to buy the LC series since I see in this post that people are reporting loud buzzing issue (that seems fixable) but then I read that this is kind of normal that it will make a minimal buzzing sound…

    Instead of “tic tic tic… tic……. tic”, I’m going to hear “buuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuz” every 12 seconds of the electric element resonating… I hope that on top of that the metallic case do not make noises when it gets hot…

    Maybe that’s why convection heater are so expensive (à la Convectair)… they do claim it is completely silent but it’s 10X the price of an LC model…

    • chad on January 6th, 2012 at 5:04pm

      Hello Claude,

      Thank you for your question, in order to fully understand your needs and provide help, we will require more information regarding the product, please contact our customer service department directly and they will be happy to assist you. http://dimplex.com/customer_support/contact_us

    • Steve on January 6th, 2012 at 9:23pm

      Claude, I upgraded my thermostats from those old Honeywell dial ones to all Honeywell RLV450 (thanks be to Costco 5-packs). From my experience they don’t seem to make any noise which is so nice, especially in the bedrooms. And, from my experience, the LC heaters that I have 1500w and below are virtually silent. I expect that my new 2500w one will be the same, when it arrives :)

  • Rob on January 10th, 2012 at 8:42pm

    I’m looking to replace my old style baseboard heaters with the LC series. Although they seem to be quite the improvement over the ones I installed 4 yrs ago. They seem to have some issues that need to be worked out. I would like to know if the buzzing problem has been rectified and if so,what manufacture date should I be looking for on the fixed heaters? I really don’t want to purchase the ones with the noise. Also ,do they come with shims to help reduce the temperature of the wall?

    • chad on January 11th, 2012 at 8:50pm

      Hello Rob,

      Thank you for your questions regarding the LC series heaters, we are happy to hear you are enjoying the improved heating capabilities that the LC provides. In order to properly answer your questions, our Customer Service department has asked that you contact them as they will require some more information. Our Customer Service Department can be reached at 1-800-668-6663, they look forward to taking your call.

  • John on February 12th, 2012 at 1:28am

    I have a 2500watt unit (also noisy) installed in my cabin. The cabin tempaerature was -13C today when I arrived (Feb 11, 2012). The heater would not work. The line voltage was 235 V at the heater connection wires. I heated the room up with a construction heater. When the temperature inside the cabin reached about +10C, the baseboard heater started working. Is this new technology susceptible to extreme cold?

    • chad on February 16th, 2012 at 3:55pm

      Hello John,

      Thank you for questions regarding your baseboard, in order to fully understand what the issue might be. Our customer service department would like for you to contact them. Our customer service department can be reached at 1-800-668-6663.

  • Ray on March 17th, 2012 at 11:45pm

    I strongly considered the Dimplex LC series for the 1910 cottage I am renovating (I need 9 heaters between 500W and 1500W). However, after reading the comments on this site regarding noise and wall heating, I have decided otherwise. The smaller, attractive design made the LC series quite appealing, however, when it comes down to it, performance is the bottom line, and again, the noise and wall heating performance concerns expressed by actual users has turned me off. Sorry.

    • chad on March 19th, 2012 at 2:50pm

      Hello Ray,

      I have updated the post to accompany your issue, please take a look at the bottom of the post. That should help answer your comment.

  • chad on April 13th, 2012 at 1:15pm

    Hello Chris,

    Wall heating occurs to a greater or lesser extent with every baseboard currently manufactured. Our linear convectors are high performance heaters, they are designed specifically to heat your room faster. In fact 40% faster, which makes you more comfortable faster. A 42% smaller heater, gives you the freedom to place the small heater in unused areas.

    This also means you’ll be heating more efficiently which saves you money.

    Thank you for your interest and feedback into our products.

  • Darren on April 20th, 2012 at 9:49am

    I must say I am very disappointed with the answers given on this site concerning “LOUD BUZZING HEATERS” . People not only WITH the problems of buzzing, but those of us CONSIDERING buying one of these heaters, deserve an answer OTHER than “contact customer service”.

    - IS THERE AN ISSUE OR NOT?
    - IF THERE IS A PROBLEM, HAS IT BEEN RESOLVED?
    (Since some people say new Ones are being sent to them because of the buzzing, I would assume there must be an issue)
    - HOW DO WE DETERMINE IF THE STORES HAVE OLDER MODELS OR NEWER ONES?

    These are VERY simple questions that deserve to be answered. (and NO, I dont want to call customer service) :)

    • chad on April 25th, 2012 at 12:12pm

      Hello Darren,

      I apologize if you have been mislead by the comment thread above. The harmonic buzzing was limited to the 2000 & 2500W versions of our LC Series. Due to their length, the copper sheathed element occasionally developed a harmonic resonance (audible humming). After some customers reported this problem, Dimplex initiated a design change, employing a stainless steel element. As well, we have found that the wall thermostats can contribute to this problem when the combined wattage loads the thermostat too close to it’s capacity. Some customers have been successful in eliminating the noise by changing to a thermostat with ample capacity. Customer who have experienced and isolated this problem to the copper sheathed element have been helped directly by reporting this problem and replacing the affected heaters.

      I hope this helps with your issues. Please let us know if we can help in any other way.

  • Leon on April 29th, 2012 at 12:11am

    I’m recently purchase these heater as well, 7 in total various sizes. I did not experience any of the noises issues, but am somewhat concern with the heating of the walls and had my cell phone charger melt from the heat. I have a outlet about 4″ above the heater. (I don’t use this outlet anymore) I’m a little concern if curtains or stuff get to close. I notice your previous answer about CSA approved, what are the safety measure to prevent overheating?

    • chad on April 30th, 2012 at 1:48pm

      Hello Leon,

      The new linear convectors are high-powered heaters if you take a look at our owner manuals for the LC http://bit.ly/IA6ZdK and LPC http://bit.ly/IA71Cu.

      Including in the document are instructions on how much distance you should keep objects from the heaters.

  • Sandra S on June 14th, 2012 at 8:35pm

    Can somebody explain to me what the difference between the LC and the LPC is? Not really clear to me when I look at you r product details.

    • chad on June 18th, 2012 at 12:18pm

      Hello Sandra,

      You can find more information on the LPC here – http://heathatfits.com/ (Click the Smarter menu item)
      The biggest different is the Whole Home Comfort Remote which can control multiple LPC’s.

      Hope this helps

  • Adam G. on August 1st, 2012 at 4:04am

    Hi, I have a few questions about the LPC series:

    -approximately how many watts per square foot of floor space is needed?
    -can you comment on the accuracy of the thermostatcon the heater, i.e. is it able to accurately estimate the temperature of a room, even though the temperature sensor is both near the source of the heat, and near the floor?
    -do the wall-mounted remote controls have their own thermostat (which would be better positioned for measuring room temperature) that can override the thermostat on the heater?
    -are you able to fully program different individual heaters (or groups of heaters) for different behaviour, all through a single wall-mounted remote?
    -are they quiet?

    Thanks,
    Adam G.

    • chad on October 12th, 2012 at 5:23pm

      Hey Adam Great questions, I have tried to break them down for you

      -approximately how many watts per square foot of floor space is needed?
      The general rule of thumb is 10 watts per square foot if the heater is being used for primary heating. If your house is well sealed and insulated you can reduce this number to 7 watts per square foot.

      -can you comment on the accuracy of the thermostatcon the heater, i.e. is it able to accurately estimate the temperature of a room, even though the temperature sensor is both near the source of the heat, and near the floor?
      Excellent question – we actually have a patent-pending for our temperature sensing and the way that we account for self-heating (from the heater), as well as the way that the heater learns the characteristics of the room and finds the most energy-efficient and accurate temperature level. As far as the location near the floor, although this goes against conventional thinking, it is actually the best location to sense temperature. The sensor is in the air stream and room air is constantly being pulled in from the room and measured before the heating takes place. Unlike wall thermostats which are passive and can be affected by any number of external factors – sunlight, cold/warm walls, room occupancy, etc. Air circulation around a wall thermostat can be very low and therefore limits its ability to accurately sense what’s happening in the room. I won’t bore you with all the science behind this, but we have a sophisticated heat loss chamber where we have simulated real world environments and validated our assertions regarding temperature sensing.

      -do the wall-mounted remote controls have their own thermostat (which would be better positioned for measuring room temperature) that can override the thermostat on the heater?
      No – the controllers send instructions to the heaters and each heater has the ability to evaluate the room conditions and decide independently what it needs to do. An example is a room with two heaters on a single circuit. In a conventional system both heaters will turn on when the thermostat senses heat loss regardless of room conditions. With our LPC heaters, if one is in a warmer part of the room (direct sun, inside wall vs. outside wall, etc.) it will remain off if the ambient temperature is already at the set point, and the heater in the cooler part of the room will turn on in order to reach the set point. We call this Micro-zone heating and it is something that only Dimplex can offer.

      -are you able to fully program different individual heaters (or groups of heaters) for different behaviour, all through a single wall-mounted remote?
      Another great question – we have a brand new, Multi-zone Programmable Controller (CX-MPC) that is just coming to stores right now. It has the ability to control an entire house full of heaters, using up to four discrete zones with 4-event scheduling throughout the day – similar to programmable furnace thermostats. Not only does this one device allow you to control all your heaters, it gives you the tools to achieve maximum energy savings. It is also excellent value at $59.99 MSRP.

      -are they quiet?
      LC/LPC heaters use convection heating and have no moving parts so they are essentially silent. We had some early issues with humming on high wattage models, but this has been resolved.

  • Flights to Menorca on August 6th, 2012 at 7:02pm

    I almost never create responses, however i did a few searching and wound up here Re-inventing the Electric Baseboard | Dimplex.
    And I do have 2 questions for you if you usually do not mind.
    Is it just me or does it appear like some of the comments appear like they are coming
    from brain dead visitors? :-P And, if you are writing on other
    social sites, I’d like to keep up with anything new you have to post. Could you list of the complete urls of all your public pages like your twitter feed, Facebook page or linkedin profile?

    • chad on August 7th, 2012 at 12:18pm

      You can click the links at the top of the blog! We have all our social media buttons posted on the top right menu bar.

  • Conqueror Paper on August 6th, 2012 at 11:00pm

    Hi there to every one, the contents present at this web
    site are really remarkable for people knowledge,
    well, keep up the good work fellows.

  • Richard Armstrong on September 4th, 2012 at 10:08pm

    Hi, I purchase about 10 Dimplex LPC Baseboards along with the LPC Remote Thermostat. So far I really love these things !! The wireless control seems to work incredibly !

    I have these installed at my seasonal home and it would be great if I could control them from home or somewhere else via internet. I have installed an IP Camera and I can monitor my place remotely and it would be great if I could control temperature as well. Any idea if you will make ths product ? Is it possible to interface some other controller for the wireless signal??

    • chad on September 5th, 2012 at 12:51pm

      Hey Richard,

      Thanks for being a Dimplex customer, I am glad that you have enjoyed the new baseboard products. At this point we don’t have any product that will access the system when your not in your home. I will pass this on to the product development team, as this is great feedback.

      Thank you Richard

    • chad on September 26th, 2012 at 1:22pm

      Hey Richard

      We have our new Multi-zone CONNEX Programmable Controller that will arrive at retail shortly. It’s not the IP based system your looking for, but it would allow you to program your place to warm up before you arrive.

  • Mikw on September 16th, 2012 at 4:42pm

    How do I Synchronize these things?
    On the LPC do I press the -,+ at the same time then press V ?????

    • chad on September 18th, 2012 at 5:59pm

      Hello Mikw

      Press and hold the “v” for 3 seconds. Press the “-“ then the “+” then the “v” on the LPC. Then within 10 seconds press the “v” on the remote.
      Hope this helps.

  • Marcia on October 1st, 2012 at 11:30pm

    What is the difference between the LC and LPC models. The LPC models state 33% energy savings, while the LC models state 10% savings. I know that the LPC model has a built in thermostat and you can buy the remote control for it. If you have an LC with an electronic thermostat would it give more than 10% energy savings. We are definitely more on board with the 33% savings vs 10% savings. We will need two 2500W to heat our main living space. If we buy these now, should they be the new ones and should the noise level be rectified?

    • chad on October 12th, 2012 at 5:20pm

      Hello Marcia,

      The two key differences between models are that the LPC adds an electronic thermostat (as you indicated) and it also features our CONNEX wireless technology. This is what allows the addition of a remote control and this is important as it also plays a role in energy savings. The LC reduces heat loss through the wall by 10% due to its smaller footprint. If you control an LC with an electronic wall thermostat you should see a little better than 10% overall energy savings. The 33% energy savings you see on the LPC was measured by 3rd party testing comparing our old baseboard with our mechanical thermostat to the LPC with built-in electronic thermostat. Your best bet for achieving maximum energy savings is to use LPC heaters with our new CX-MPC Multi-zone Programmable Controller. This will allow you to benefit from zone heating, reducing the temperature in low occupancy areas, as well overnight and during work hours (if applicable). There are too many factors involved in heat loss calculations for me to say definitively what your savings will be, but they will be significant.

      To answer your last question, the noise issue on the 2500W LC/LPC has been resolved so you can purchase with confidence knowing that you will enjoy silent heat.

  • Brad Hefford on October 8th, 2012 at 3:50pm

    WHY DO YOU ADVERTISE a 33% ENERGY SAVINGS WITH THE LPC AND ONLY 10% WITH THE LC? is the eletronic thermostat soley responsible for this difference?

    • chad on October 24th, 2012 at 2:54pm

      Hello Brad,

      Thanks for your question regarding the energy savings available with our LC and LPC heaters. You are correct that the electronic thermostat is what creates the higher energy savings. The main difference in performance comes when comparing the LPC heater that has a built-in electronic thermostat to our previous generation baseboard using our TS-321 line voltage wall thermostat.

  • mike w on October 12th, 2012 at 1:29pm

    Two weeks ago, I purchased LC 40″ 1500 watt baseboard heater for our bedroom. As soon as I turned it on, I noticed my heater makes the buzzing sound as describe above. Every 10 or 12 seconds it buzzes for 4-5 seconds continously. It’s definitely not limited to the 2000 w & 2500 w models. I use a Honeywell RLV4300A 5-2 programmable thermostat to control my new heater, it’s rated for 3000 watts, could this thermostat be contributing to the buzzing noise? Is this buzzing noise a safety concern?

    Thanks,

    • chad on October 24th, 2012 at 2:56pm

      Hey Mike,

      Thank you for your question, in order to properly diagnose what is causing the buzzing sound you mention please contact our customer service department directly, http://dimplex.com/en/contact_us they will walk through the product installation with you including any issues that may be tied to the thermostat. They will then be able to recommend the solution required to fix the buzzing sound.

  • Claude on October 17th, 2012 at 5:21am

    Hello, I’ve written awhile ago about the noise issue of the LC models. I am seeking this model LC6025W31 and I read that noise issue should be resolved.

    Comments from buyers who bought this model reported noises but it is dated from January 2012.

    How can I be sure I won’t get “old” stock when I buy your product (October 2012) ? Is there a range of serial number or dates written on the box where you can tell me that could indicate they are the right ones (silent ones) ?

    • chad on October 24th, 2012 at 2:57pm

      Hello Claude, thank you for your question, as you mentioned the noise issues we were having with the 2000 and 2500 watt models was resolved a while ago, if you would like to double check to ensure you are buying the new models with stainless steel elements, you can look at the catalogue number on the carton as we have added a + sign to the end to signify the newer models. So for the model number you are seeking the catalogue number would read LC6025W31+

  • Stephen Richards on October 20th, 2012 at 4:48pm

    I am planning on installing two or three LPCs in a workshop. It will be unoccupied for most of the time, so I want to keep it at around 5 deg C. Does the LPC thermostat and wall-moount controller allow such a low setting?

    • chad on November 2nd, 2012 at 1:43pm

      Hello Stephen

      The LPC thermostat and wall mount controller will allow you to set the temperature as low as 0 deg C.

  • Chantal Hainault on October 20th, 2012 at 7:18pm

    Hi,
    We just installed the LPC linear proportional convector 2000 W.
    We already have Honeywell thermostat RLV 4300.
    Why is the LPC working continuosly?

    Shouldn’t we be able to synchronize the LPC 2000 with our our existing Honeywell Thermostat ? We tried synchronizing as explained in section E of your instruction pamphlet and it’s obviosly not working( + and – at the same time before pressing V??)
    Could the LPC be incompatible with our existing thermostat or is the problem with the installation ?

    I found your instruction guide and pictures of the installation to not be very clear

    thank you for your precisions.

  • Nancy MacDonald on October 23rd, 2012 at 6:05pm

    We have been using one of the 5ftlong LC baseboard heaters (along with 7 other shorter ones throughout our house) – the 5 ft long one has suddenly malfunctioned in that it stays at 76 degrees blowing heat constantly on the wall making it even hotter than all the other walls . It is apparently a malfunctioning thermostat. Is this an ongoing issue as this is a seasonal home and will be left unattended for weeks on end? We are extremely grateful we had not left the home – we are leaving for MANY weeks in only 3 days. This is not leaving us with very much confidence that our home is safe. This is a new build. Please, please advise! Any safety steps we can take?

    • chad on October 24th, 2012 at 7:42pm

      Hello Nancy,

      We are sorry to hear that you are having an issue with your 5 ft long baseboard. This is not an ongoing issue, yours is an isolated incident. We recommend either speaking with our technical support department at 888-346-7539 to determine if parts are available, or contacting your place of purchase for an exchange.

  • Sean on October 25th, 2012 at 6:24pm

    Hello, I am considering replacing the baseboard heaters in my condo that used to be an office building. I believe the old baseboard heaters are inefficient and one has stopped working. There are currently 4 total heaters all 102″ long. I plan to add 4 of your 2500W baseboard heaters (250 sq feet each) to a 500 square foot loft with 10 to 12 foot ceilings. I beleive that the insulation is not great but not poor. The loft is on the south west corner of the building and we get sun on and off through other buildings till about 2pm. About 50% of the south wall is windows, and approximately 50% of the West wall is windows. The current tennant is complaing about cold. The current units are run off of two non-programmable thermostats. My building also has a contract to get its electrical from a company so our bills tend to be higher than average (poor choice by the condo board).

    My questions:
    1) Is my selection of 4x 250 sq feet units overkill? Or is this reasonable considering the medium level of insulation, lots of windows and higher ceilings

    2) If the 4x 250 sq ft units is a correct choice and if this turns out to be overkill, will this be better or worse for my electrical bill. In other words is it better to have the heaters working constantly to keep up or is it best to heat up fast and then turn off. The answer seems logical to me but I am no professional.

    And lastly

    3) The room is one big open room with only the bathroom separated. All heaters are in the main room. Should I forget about using the wall mounted thermostats and go with the individually controlled (built in thermostat LPC) units? Or, if I should stick with the wall thermostats, which is better? Programmable or the regular manual ones for this room?

    Thank you very much for any help you can provide,

    Sean

    • chad on October 29th, 2012 at 7:42pm

      Hello Sean,

      I would say that since you’re removing four 2500W baseboards, any less wattage would not be advisable. However, in order to improve comfort we will need to determine why the existing installation is not meeting your needs. There should be plenty of heat relative to the space, unless there is lots of cold air infiltration or the controls are not working properly.

      You also mentioned that one heater may not be working, which may be part of the problem, but it is also possible that the wall thermostats could be getting direct sunlight. This would cause the heaters to think that the room is warmer than it actually is and not heat the room correctly.

      Installing four 2500W LC’s will give you the heat you need while reducing the length by 40% compared to the existing heaters. In this scenario you will still use wall thermostats, but we would recommend upgrading them a programmable, electronic model.
      If you choose to install four 2500W LPC’s you can remove the existing thermostats, which may be contributing to the heating inefficiency. LPC heaters sense room temperature in the air stream, which makes them more accurate and less likely to be affected by direct sunlight and other environmental factors. In this scenario, we recommend you install a Multi-zone CONNEX Controller, which can be synchronized to control all four heaters. This will give the high-efficiency and comfort of the built-in electronic thermostats, plus it will give you the programmable operation, which will also save you money.

      Thank you

  • Curtis on October 30th, 2012 at 10:07pm

    I am looking for the LPC 120V version in my area and cannot find them. I live in Saskatoon Saskatchewan. My local Home Depot is useless they cannot even look up the item and tell me all they have are the 240V versions. Please let me know where I can purchase the 120V versions.

    • chad on October 31st, 2012 at 12:46pm

      Hello Curtis,

      Have you tried our Dealer Locator type in your postal code and you should find local authorized Dimplex dealers. I would suggest calling them before visiting them but usually most dealers can order from us if they don’t have it in stock.

  • Victoria on November 3rd, 2012 at 11:55am

    I am wondering about the safety of having the openings on top of the heater as opposed to the sides. With the extreme heat that is produced from these heaters i have concerns about my children poking things down into the heater and just things falling down into the heater and the hazards that this could cause. we were in the middle of replacing our baseboard heaters when you took the old style off the market and now we can’t find any of the old style anywhere, not impressed that we are now going to have to have different models of heaters around our house unless we go with a similar style in another brand.

    • chad on November 5th, 2012 at 6:33pm

      Hello Victoria

      Let me first thank you for expressing your concerns as it is always good for us to hear directly from the people who are using our heaters. We include a full length grille across the top vent on our LC heaters to minimize the risk of anything falling, or being placed, in the unit. The front opening on our previous model, similar to all conventional baseboards, is about three times larger than the spacing on the new model and is much easier for children push thing inside. However, either product (new or old) is designed with thermal overheat protection that runs the full length of the opening so that if the heat is blocked for any reason the unit will shut itself off.
      We apologize for any inconvenience caused by the discontinuing of the previous model. One suggestion would be to locate new LC models in your primary living areas where they will occupy less space. Then the older units can be used in bedrooms, basement, etc. where they will be less visible.

  • Netty Chard on November 3rd, 2012 at 1:26pm

    We have installed one of these beautiful heaters however I am concerned about the heat on the wall. I did not get burnt when touching the wall however I think with continued use it is just a matter of time before the heated wall turn brittle and then can easily catch fire. The instructions said nothing about adding shim’s or spacers. What kind of spacers are recommended?

    • chad on November 5th, 2012 at 6:32pm

      Hello Netty,

      Thank you for sharing your comments and concerns with us. We would like to assure you that the temperature you are feeling on the wall is perfectly safe for both you and the wall itself. It might help for you to know that drywall is used in building codes as a fire block because of its very high resistance to heat. It also ships from the factory with virtually no moisture in it, which prevents it from becoming brittle or changing in any way. Latex paint, which once fully cured, essentially forms a layer of plastic on the wall, which also has a very high resistance to heat. All our products, including LC/LPC heaters, are subjected to very demanding testing and are certified for safe operation. If you would prefer to increase the airflow at the heater and reduce the wall temperature we have an optional Installation Optimizer kit, which is available where you purchased your heater or by calling our customer service line at 888-DIMPLEX (346-7539).

  • Gary on November 5th, 2012 at 7:35pm

    Installed two Dimplex LC baseboard units, replacing old pre-existing baseboards. These are dangerously hot! I can’t imagine what it would be like in a childs room. Small objects can easily fall into fins. We had a small plastic object fall in and melt causing a terrible burnt plastic odour. I will agree that they heat up quickly … like a stove top.

    • chad on November 16th, 2012 at 9:06pm

      Hello Gary,

      Our LC series units are safe to use. The units are CSA Approved. In fact the CSA Standard is 90°C and our LC units are tested at 80°C which is 10°C below. Yes, it is normal for the unit to be hot to the touch. However, the units are not hot enough to burn.

  • ctideman on November 11th, 2012 at 9:41pm

    I was shocked to feel how hot the walls became behind the recently installed 2 new 500 w heaters, even with the ugly wooden spacers. So I cranked them to their highest outflow just to see what would happen if a child did likewise.Consequently burning my fingers when I touched the metal.You say these have been approved by CSA. How can this be so when a burn might result.The engineering of these units should be readdressed to move the hot air away from the walls,along with a cutoff to eliminate this extreme temperature.I never worried about the old type which I have had in 3 different homes but these newer prototypes are downright scary! so much so that I’ve turned them off!!

    • chad on November 12th, 2012 at 4:14pm

      Hello

      Thank you for sharing your comments and concerns with us. We would be happy to provide you with the optional Installation Optimizer kit, which will reduce your wall temperature to levels similar to our previous generation of baseboard heater. Please call our customers service line at 888-DIMPLEX (346-7539) and we will get them out to you immediately.

      To address your specific comment about safety and testing, each Linear Convector is equipped with full length overheat protection, which is set five degrees (Celsius) below the maximum CSA safety limit. Linear Convectors operate well below this limit during normal operation, but the overheat protection will shut the unit off if it approaches the CSA limit, typically due to a blockage above the heater or restricted airflow entering the unit.

  • Jen on November 19th, 2012 at 2:16am

    I just installed Lc 1000 w set my thermostat at 20 c
    in 20 minutes the wall was so hot ,that it could burn you,
    the lc unit I woud not attempt to touch, It would of caused
    thrid degree burns,
    Is this a malfuctioning unit or is your product going to kill
    us when were sleeping by fire,
    I have little children in my house and I am on a fix
    income, now I just paid the electrician $150 to install
    this product and going to have to pay him again to take it
    off who is going to cover my expenses, and on top of that
    will have to take your product back to home depot by ttc
    there and back ,and return it – and search for another base heater
    buy it call the electrician for the thrid time to install the
    new product,
    Total expenses unknowing but at lease my house
    will not burn down, and my children will have to do without
    chrismas this year,
    Thank you
    Dimplex

    • chad on November 22nd, 2012 at 3:30pm

      Hello Jen,

      Our LC series unit are safe to use. The units are CSA Approved. In fact the CSA Standard is 90°C and our LC units are tested at 80°C which is 10°C below. Yes, it is normal for the unit to be hot to the touch. However, the units are not hot enough to burn.

  • Anil on November 26th, 2012 at 4:08am

    Obviously, all answers will be biased towards painting Dimplex in the best light. It would be prudent to advise CSA of the heating of the walls that the heater is installed on.

  • Kevin T. deLeeuw on November 28th, 2012 at 10:03pm

    Hello, We purchased one of these new base board heaters that vents from the top. I have to remove the heater because of the black heat marks it makes up our wall and in the grill on the top. We only have the heater on an average heat 4 to 6 hour a day. Am I the only person with this problem and is this normal?
    I would only recomend this product if they where being mounted on a tiled wall like in a washroom.

    • Karyn on December 5th, 2012 at 3:04pm

      Hi Kevin

      Let us first say thank you for sharing your experience and assure you that you are not the only person with this issue. Wall streaking is common, to varying degrees, with all types of convection heaters including electric baseboards and hydraulic (hot water) radiators. It can sometimes even be seen behind refrigerators and televisions. It is important to note that the heater itself may be showing the symptom of wall streaking, but it is not the cause. Wall streaking is the deposit of airborne dust and other containments on the wall surface. The heater is re-circulating the air in the room and since many homes are increasingly air-tight, it may be worth looking for anything that could be contributing to airborne particles

      Wall streaking caused by typical household dust and dirt will wipe off the wall and heater grill with standard household cleaners. However, streaking caused by nicotine, candle smoke, or aerosol-based chemicals (hair spray, air freshener, etc.) can cause permanent wall discoloration and may only be resolved by repainting the affected area with a good quality, washable latex paint.

  • John on December 3rd, 2012 at 1:44pm

    I want to install a recently purchased 2500 W 60″ LPC in a new construction workshop. The primary use will be for freeze protection however I will want to crank up the temperature for warmth while I am in the shop. Due to space constraints I need to install the LPC beneath the main electric service panel which is approximately 60″ above the floor. My understanding is circuit breakers are thermally activated. Will the heat generated from the LPC compromise the circuit breakers within the panel thus possibly causing false breaker trips?

    • Karyn on December 5th, 2012 at 4:19pm

      Hi John

      Thanks for your question, we do not recommend the use of any convection heater under a distribution panel. Because of your space constraints, need for freeze protection, and rapid, on-demand heat, we recommend the use of our compact, fan-forced heater (RDH series). Using a fan-forced heater will ensure that the heat is pushed out into the room, which is important in the room you describe. This product is very compact and offers up to 2,000 watts of heat. It also includes a built-in single pole thermostat with a minimum setting of 5º C (41º F) that will give you the freeze protection you need. The fan-forced operation will also give you faster response when you are in the room and need to increase the room temperature as quickly as possible. To find outmore information about the RDH series, please click on the following link to be taken to the product page on our website
      http://www.dimplex.com/en/home_heating/fanforced_heaters/products/rdh_series/fan_forced_wall_heaters

  • roy wright on December 5th, 2012 at 5:55pm

    Hi
    I also have concerns on the amount of heat the heaters generate(hot walls)
    we have a plug above 1 heater and it is scorched.Also scorched our blinds whicj are approximately 1 ft or more above the heaters?
    Do you have the older style heaters available?

    • Karyn on December 7th, 2012 at 7:06pm

      Hi Roy

      Thanks for your message, unfortunately we no longer offer the older style of baseboard heaters, but it is important to note that building codes specify that electrical outlets must not be directly above an electric baseboard heater of any kind. We also specify in the Linear Convector owner’s manual that overhanging solid objects be kept a minimum of 14” above the heater, and plastic (vinyl) blinds in particular must be at least 20” above the heater.

  • Todd on December 8th, 2012 at 10:40pm

    I’ve had a 2000w LC heater installed below a new picture window. After running the heater 4-5 minutes, the back top metal edge of the heater hits over 110ºC and the bottom of the picture window frame reaches 70ºC (11″ above heater). This seems way to hot. Is my heater defective?

    • Karyn on December 13th, 2012 at 2:21pm

      Hi Todd

      Thank you for your question. Let me start off my saying that your heater is not defective, but there is not adequate clearance between the heater outlet and the window frame. The minimum clearance to solid (non-plastic) over-hanging objects is 14 inches. While the 70º C temperature you mention does not pose any risk to the wall materials (drywall, paint, wood trim) themselves, every inch of clearance does make a difference, which is why we specify 14 inches in the owner’s manual. Strictly speaking, your installation is not suited for a Linear Convector.

      With that said, you can lower the exhaust temperature on all but the coldest days of the year by using a proportional electronic thermostat, like the one that is included in our Linear Proportional Convector (LPC). This allows the heater to run consistently at lower temperatures, rather than running full-on, full-off using an LC with a conventional thermostat. If you are using your LC with a wall thermostat, the easiest thing to do would be to replace your current thermostat with an electronic thermostat. This will give you a similar proportional heating capability to what I described in our LPC heater. Assuming that the heater has been correctly sized for the room, meaning that it will only run at 100% heat output on the coldest day of the year, you will see lower temperatures on the heater itself and wall. If you are using the LC with the built-in thermostat you could simply replace it with the same size LPC. In either scenario, the electronic thermostat will deliver energy savings, as well as a more comfortable room.

  • Michael T. on December 18th, 2012 at 1:15pm

    I have read through these blog posts that Dimplex has solved the buzzing problem and has appended the “+” symbol to the end of the part number to signify this change. However when I look at on line retailers I cannot find the new part number. What should I do?

    Also if I maintain the clearances around the heater per the installation instructions is there any advantage or disadvantage to mounting the heater six inches off the floor?

    Thank you

    • Karyn on December 21st, 2012 at 8:57pm

      Hi Michael, thanks for your question. The humming problem only affected 2,000 and 2,500 watt units so the “+” is only evident on these sizes. If you are looking for a lower wattage unit this may explain why you’re not seeing the “+”.

      There is no advantage to installing the heater six inches off the floor as it is designed to draw air in from floor level. Moving it up the wall will disrupt the airflow pattern that Linear Convectors were designed to produce.

    • Michael T. on December 26th, 2012 at 5:02pm

      Thanks Karyn for your quick reply!

      Actually I am considering the 240V, 2500W, LPC unit. I spoke with one of your online retailers and they were not familiar with the problem, resolution, or the “+” indicator. What do you suggest I do to insure that I when I order I received one of the new, “+”, 2500W units?

    • Karyn on January 2nd, 2013 at 3:42pm

      Hi Michael,
      If the store orders a unit for you then it should be a new unit since it has been several months since this change was made. If the unit is in stock at the dealer, ask them to verify that the model number is LC6025W31+.

  • satish on December 29th, 2012 at 5:18pm

    Can these heaters be directly plugged in to 110V outlet or do I have to get electrician to change some wiring to get 220V for these heaters.

    • Karyn on January 3rd, 2013 at 3:58pm

      Linear Convectors cannot be altered for plug-in 110V operation. An electrician can order a 110V version from an electrical distributor, but this product still requires a hard-wired connection. Alternately, the electrician can run a 220V supply for a 220V product. Either way, we recommend you consult with a licensed electrician to determine the best course of action.

  • marvin on December 29th, 2012 at 7:40pm

    i have a dimplex baseboard heater.it is installed under a picture window and i believe this heater is as old as this house. whitch is 33 years old. i am trying to find a deflecter for this item.the unit is 102 inches long and gets very hot so i dont think you could use anything plastic.there is a cable t v slightly to the side and above the unit. this heater gets hot enough to distort the cable cover.do you have an idea where i could get a metal deflecter for this?

    • Karyn on January 3rd, 2013 at 4:00pm

      Hi Marvin,
      We do not make a deflector for our electric baseboards and we are not aware of any such product. The reason is because a deflector placed above a baseboard does not provide a meaningful change in direction of the air flow. The heated air is very buoyant and will rise straight up regardless of any obstructions placed this close to the heater. This is part of the reason why electrical codes prohibit the installation of baseboards below outlets. Our Linear Convector baseboards are shorter than a conventional baseboard for the same wattage, which may help you avoid having the heater under your cable outlet. Thanks.

  • David Hett on December 31st, 2012 at 10:58pm

    I have the 750 watt LPG with the onboard thermostat. The thermostat is working, but isn’t transferring any power to the heating element. I have 240 volts and appropriaate resistance in the heater. The incoming lines aren’t labelled well. Peerhaps you could help me with this?

    Dave Hett

    • Karyn on January 10th, 2013 at 3:59pm

      HI Dave

      Thank you for your question. I have spoken with our customer service department, they have asked that since your question requires wiring guidance, it would be best if you contacted them so they could walk you through the installation and guide you were needed. They can be reached at 1-800-668-6663.

  • Michael T. on January 3rd, 2013 at 12:02am

    Hi Karyn,

    I assume for the same is true for an LPC model, i.e., LPC6025W31+ would be the correct part number? thank you!!

    • Karyn on January 3rd, 2013 at 4:45pm

      The correct model number for the LPC is “PC6025W51+”

  • Beth on January 18th, 2013 at 5:53pm

    I have an ancient 8′ long baseboard heater that I’d like to replace with two of your newer LPC heaters side by side to deliver more heat to a large open space with a vaulted ceiling. (There is a 5′ long Dimplex bb heater on the other side of the room, which was installed 10 years ago, but that and the 8′ older one don’t cut the mustard, despite the ceiling fan.) I have several questions.

    First of all, can two LPC heaters be wired together end to end? (My existing wire is on the right side and there is no access to bring another wire up through the floor further along.) The new design has rounded ends so perhaps it’s not possible. If that’s the case perhaps I could run wire via conduit from the right end of one heater to the right end of the next one??

    Another problem is that I have very low picture windows over the existing heater — the bottom of the frame is only 9 1/2″ from the floor — so I am concerned about window coverings. Right now I have metal venetians on the windows so at least they wouldn’t go on fire or melt (would they?) but I was hoping to buy new cellular shades for the windows and I’m guessing that would present a fire hazard?

    I would likely want to get the wall-mounted remote thermostat you mentioned, but am concerned about wireless signals with all the talk about the effect of EMF’s on health. Any comments about that?

    Lastly, most of my walls have tongue and groove pine or wood panelling on them. So far I have installed one LC heater in a newly remodelled room that does have drywall but, other than the one remaining very old heater, all of my others are Dimplex heaters that I put in about 10 years ago so they vent outward rather than up. I’m wondering if it’s safe to put the new LC or LPC heaters on walls finished with wood.

    I look forward to your response.

    Beth

    • Karyn on February 5th, 2013 at 8:39pm

      Hi Beth,

      First of all, thank you for choosing Dimplex, and thank you for your detailed questions. It’s obvious you’ve thought a lot about these issues and hopefully we can help you and other people with similar issues by addressing your questions.

      Ideally, we would suggest keeping your heaters on opposite sides of the room. The lack of heat/comfort you’re feeling in that vaulted room probably has more to do with the lack of performance from those conventional baseboards, as opposed to their location. You can expect much greater air movement from LPC heaters wherever they are located, and putting them beside each doesn’t have any inherent performance advantage.

      LPC’s can be installed next to each other, but they cannot be wired in series. The power connection must happen at the right-hand side of the LPC. But you can then run wire back out and under the LPC and to the RH side of the next LPC so they are wired in parallel. You can safely run the wire through the channel that is created under the heater when mounted on the floor. These connections are allowed providing that the branch circuit you are connecting to has the capacity to operate the two heaters and wire is rated for the load.

      The problem of the low picture window is also important. There is not enough clearance above the top of the heater if the bottom of the frame is 9.5” off the floor and the heater itself is almost 7” tall. The minimum clearance for overhanging objects (window trim, blinds, etc.) is 14” above the top of the heater (and 20” for vinyl products). Strictly speaking your metal venetians won’t burn or melt, but they are essentially blocking the heat and airflow, which will impact the performance and efficiency of the heaters, which brings us back to your primary issue.

      Here are some suggestions to try to bring all of this together:
      - The current 5’ unit on the other side of the room is probably 1250 or 1500 watts. Assuming you have room on the circuit, including the extra safety buffer required by your electrical code (usually 20%) we recommend you install our 2500 watt LPC, which is also 5’ long. LPC’s are proportional heaters, which means that if the heat loss for your room on an average cold day is 1250 watts (this is just an arbitrary number), then a 2500 watt LPC will only produce 50% of its total power output (continuously) to precisely match the heat loss. By having two 2500 watt LPC’s, each of them should operate at even lower levels because of this proportional performance, which may be important to the unit on the window side of the room.
      - Try to relocate the unit along the wall so that it is not directly under the window. This is important for the sake of clearances to over-hanging objects, as well as for optimizing airflow and comfort in your room.

      LC/LPC’s are safe for use on wood panelling, as well as drywall, plaster and concrete.

      LPC’s and the wireless CONNEX devices that control them use the same frequency as cordless phones. Unlike WiFi routers and similar devices that broadcast continuously, our heaters and controls only send out a signal when there is a change in setting. So even if you go with the programmable CONNEX control, this would be as few as four times per day as it cycles through the program. By any measure, you should feel confident that our system is completely safe.

      I hope this information helps and thank you again for your informed and insightful questions.

  • Jim Wilson on January 22nd, 2013 at 5:09pm

    I have a customer who has called our company back to remove one of these new heaters that we installed not quite a year ago becuase it has discoloured her wall paper. She is concerned about the extreme heat that comes out of the top of these units. We will replace it for her today but that’s the easy part. Now she will have to replace her wall paper in that area as well. The wall paper has been there for over 20 years and electric baseboard heat has always been used.
    As an electrical contractor who has dealt with many heating products over the years I must say that I’m concerned about the output temperature and the way that it is directed straight towards the wall.

    • Karyn on February 6th, 2013 at 1:45pm

      Hi Jim

      Thank you for your message and concern regarding the product. I have sent your message onto our Customer Service department and asked them to get in touch with you. If you are able to provide a phone number that would be best, otherwise they will respond via e-mail.

  • Robert on January 27th, 2013 at 7:25pm

    I installed two of these units in my kitchen and then one in the bathroom. I must say that I was very impressed with the speed with which these units heat up. However, I now have to remove them as the heat goes straight up the wall and, as such, creates a horrible thermal gradient in the room. i.e. the ceiling is about 10 degrees warmer than the floor.

    Without a ceiling fan, it is very uncomfortable. Perhaps a redesign might be in order, have the heat come out the front.

    Engineers, any comment on this?

    • Karyn on February 25th, 2013 at 5:01pm

      Hi Robert,

      Thanks for your feedback and question, I have spoken with our enginnering group and they wanted to share this with you.

      We learned several interesting things when we engineered the LC using Computer Fluid Dynamics (CFD). Even though the front venting design of a conventional electric baseboard would suggest that the heat would be pushed out into the room, we learned that it actually behaves very differently. The buoyancy of the hot air, which wants to go straight up, causes it to wrap around the top of a conventional baseboard, creating a vortex and then proceeds straight up the wall. Our design takes the obstruction out of the way, eliminating the vortex and allowing the air to move in a clean, laminar flow up the wall, off the ceiling and out into the room. Conventional electric baseboards have never been able to achieve the same kind of air circulation that we see with our LC and LPC heaters and we’re confident that the design offers best-in-class performance. We do have an image of the unit using the CFD as mentioned above that I can send you via e-mail if you are interested.

      Hope this help you understand the product performance and why we designed them with a top vent discharge.

  • Dan on February 1st, 2013 at 9:32pm

    Hi Karyn,

    I’ve just read through all these comments. Looks like a great electric baseboard heater you guys have. We’re looking into upgrading some of our units in the future, as well as possibly building additonal units with attic and or basement space and I have a quite a few concerns and questions about the dimplex heaters.

    At present, we have a more pressing situation. I need an electric baseboard heater to replace the old hydronic baseboard for a common area in a quadplex. We are in the midwest, with temperatures routinely below freezing in the winter. The problem was, one of the tenants left the door ajar overnight and the pipes in the hydronic baseboard froze and split open. The location of the heater is on the wall directly next to the exterior doors. I don’t want to have that problem again, so electric makes sense for this situation.

    I’m wondering if your LP or LPC heaters would be a good match for my goals, which are to 1) keep the common area heated to no less than 45 degrees F in the winter (I don’t want the old style heaters that just have an on off “low medium high setting” I want something that will regulate itself without my physical presence in the building) and 2) allow the use of a programmable thermostat that can only be changed with a code (so tenants cannot turn up or down the thermostat and cause more problems).

    Right now I have a temporary heater plugged for the area, but I’d like to have an electrician out next week to tackle the issue. It’s very cold here, and with plumbing pipes along the floor and walls it’s important that this common area not get close to freezing.
    The common area floorspace is approximately 32 ft sq ( ~4 x 8) but has an additional space that goes up roughly 20 stairs vertically so that space would need to be heated as well. The wall that we need to replace the heater is 43 1/2 inches.

    I am a bit concerned about all the posts regarding the walls heating up, the bathroom plumbing for one of the apartment units is directly behind this wall. Am I correct in thinking that the “optimizer kit” referred to earlier is the best way to reduce wall temperatures? Whether my terminology on the optimizer install kit is correct, can you provide some more details on that or a weblink as to how far the offset is, and what it would look like?

    Also, there is a plug outlet above the baseboard space, but the outlet plug is 35″ above the baseboard top. Will this be an issue?

    I am thinking maybe a 500W, or 750W LC or LPC would be a good fit for this case. Aside from answering the above questions, and hoping that this is a good solution, can you recommend a model, wattage, and whether 110V or 220V would be best? I looked through the online brochures and I saw that these are 42% smaller and more efficient, but I didn’t see actual sizing measurements so I need some guidance to know if this will fit physically and do the job of keeping the space warm enough?

    Sorry to have so many questions, I just want to make sure I get the right product to do the job once. In a way, I guess this replacement for the hydronic baseboard will also be a good hands on trial for our future needs as well.

    Thanks,
    Dan

    • Karyn on February 12th, 2013 at 4:32pm

      Hello Dan,

      We’ve reviewed the details of your installation with our engineers and can recommend the following:

      - Install a 1250 watt (220V) LPC, which measures 35”. This will give you plenty of room on the wall and plenty heating capacity when you need it. You can order the LPC as 110V or 220V so it will depend mostly on the supply line you have installed. Most hard-wire installations are done using 220V supply, but you can make that determination with a licensed electrician.
      - The LPC includes a lockout for the built-in controls, making it tamperproof for your tenants. You can control the heater with the wireless (CX-MPC) Programmable CONNEX Control, which will work even when the built-in controls are locked-out. Its wireless capability allows you to put it somewhere that only you will have access. The temperature sensing is still done at the heater, not the control, so it will still operate the heater properly even in a locked closet.
      - You don’t need to be concerned about the temperature of the wall with the plumbing inside and do not need to use the Optimizer Kit. The LPC is a proportional heater, which means it will run continuously at low levels, rather than full-on, full-off for long intervals like a conventional baseboard. This proportional heating will also lower wall temperatures on all but the coldest days of the year. You only need to make sure you don’t run a screw into your pipes when you’re installing the heater.
      - The outlet plug at 35” has plenty of clearance from the heater so it should not be an issue.

      Hopefully we’ve addressed all your questions and thanks for using Dimplex!

  • Philippe Waltz on February 4th, 2013 at 10:35pm

    Hi,
    I have just purchase my first 750Watts LC liner convector and I have to say I am not impress at all. For a room of 12*13 (and roof is going in the room so I have about 20% less space to heat compare to a full 8′ tall room). I cant heat my room up to 20c when it is -10C out side… What could be he problem ?

    Thanks,

    Regards,
    Philippe

    • Karyn on February 6th, 2013 at 2:45pm

      Hello Philippe,

      Thank you for your question, it appears that the issue you are having with the heat in your room may be due to the fact that the heater is undersized for the room requirements. The general rule of thumb for primary electric heat is 10 Watts per square foot, which in your case would mean that you need a 1,500 watt heater (12 x 13 = 156 x 10 = 1560). If you want to do a very precise heat loss calculation based on your exact room specifications (insulation R-value, number of windows/doors, ceiling height, etc.) you can the heat loss calculator on our web site:

      http://www.dimplex.com/en/customer_support/heat_loss_calculator
      French http://www.dimplex.com/fr/customer_support/heat_loss_calculator

      If you still have any concerns after you do the heat loss calculation, please contact us and we will do our best to help you further.

  • Jo-ann on February 8th, 2013 at 2:29am

    Hi, I’m just wondering if the model number on the heater has the + after it. Mine does not have the +. I have a 1500 watt and a 2500 Watt that were both installed last October. They both have the buzzing sound, the 2500 watt is worse, that has been very noticeable and annoying. Now, seeing that it may be an older model I would like to know if it is and then how I can get in replaced. Having to pay for someone to install it, however, if it is a defective product is not going to be so nice.

    • Karyn on February 14th, 2013 at 4:46pm

      Hi Jo-ann

      Thank you for your post, if your units have a buzzing sound and do not have the + sign after the model number, please contact our customer service department, they will walk through a few things with you and then decide the best way to fix the buzzing noise. They can be reached via phone at 1-800-668-6663 or e-mail at techsupport@dimplex.com. If you are sending an e-mail, please ensure to leave your full contact information and product information so they can get back to you easily. If you are calling in, we do recommend that you call first thing in the morning (8 a.m.) as the phone lines can get busy as the day goes on.

  • Kevin Fuller on February 12th, 2013 at 1:43am

    Hi There,

    I will be installing an LPC linear baseboard heater in the kitchen on an outside wall.
    These come with a built in digital thermostat.

    Normally, manufacturers advise not to install thermostats:
    a) On an outside wall.
    And:
    b) About 48″ (only approx) above floor level.
    c) (approx) 2Ft. from a corner.

    Regarding the LPC units, is it better to use the ondoard/installed digital thermostat, or install a separate thermostat on an inside wall opsite the unit (possibly the Dimplex wireless remote unit)?

    Cheers
    Kev

    • Karyn on February 14th, 2013 at 4:38pm

      Hi Kev,

      Great questions… we’ll try and give you some great answers. You’re absolutely right about the advice given my manufacturers of traditional thermostats. This is because their thermostats are passive, meaning that they only sense what is happening directly around them. That’s why a cold outside wall, a high/low position on the wall, or spot in the room with bad air circulation (corner) will affect their performance.

      The LPC uses new technology and innovative design to improve the performance of the thermostat regardless of the location. The LPC temperature sensor is located in the air intake so the heater is actively pulling in room air and measuring the temperature before it is heated. This gives a far more accurate measure of what’s happening in the room, rather than just at one spot on the wall. Our wireless remote doesn’t sense temperature, it only sends the set temperature instructions to the heater. Again, this is unique because you can synchronize all your LPC’s to one control and each heater can independently heat as needed. We call this micro-zone heating because in larger rooms this means that an LPC on a cold side of a room might be running when another one in a warmer spot will remain off. This ensures both comfort and energy efficiency and it’s something you can only do by doing the temperature sensing at the heater.

      I know this goes against conventional wisdom, but we’ve done a lot of engineering to prove this technology. We built a heat loss / airflow visualization chamber that is one of only a few in North America. This let us see how our system works compared to conventional thermostats and confirm that we can deliver better performance and energy efficiency.

      I hope this information helps… I’m sure you’ll be very happy with the performance of the product.

  • shane on February 15th, 2013 at 8:13pm

    Hello,

    The extreme heat from the units had cracked the paint on my walls.

    The spacer solution does not work for me, what are the alternatives? This is obviously a huge problem and i’m sure over a prolonged period of time a fire hazard.

    • Karyn on February 25th, 2013 at 2:40pm

      Hi Shane

      Thank you for your post, I have asked our Customer Service department to contact you regarding the cracked paint on your walls, as this is not something we typically hear of with these units and they will want to ask you some questions before being able to help determine the cause and provide a solution. They will be contacting you via the e-mail provided.

      In response to your concern about the long-term fire hazard, which we take very seriously, we have compiled some information from the Gypsum Association. This trade association represents manufacturers of drywall, and speaks directly to the concerns about long-term exposure of drywall:

      Fire resistance
      Gypsum board is an excellent fire-resistive building material. In North America, it is the most commonly used interior finish where fire resistance classifications are required. Its non-combustible core contains nearly 21% chemically combined water, as described earlier, which, under high heat, is slowly released as steam. Because steam will not exceed 212 degrees F under normal atmospheric pressure, it very effectively retards the transfer of heat and the spread of fire. Even after complete calcination, when all the water has been released from its core, gypsum board continues to serve as a heat-insulating barrier. Moreover, tests conducted in accordance with ASTM E 84 show that gypsum board has a low flame-spread index and a low smoke-density index. When installed in combination with other materials in laboratory-tested wall and ceiling assemblies, gypsum board serves to effectively protect building elements from fire for prescribed time periods. To view this information directly visit this link – http://www.gypsum.org/using-gypsum-board-for-walls-and-ceilings/using-gypsum-board-for-walls-and-ceilings-section-i/#fire

      The important message is, “Even after complete calcination, when all the water has been released from its core, gypsum board continues to serve as a heat-insulating barrier.” In other words, once the wall material is completely dry, it still maintains its original characteristics of heat and fire resistance, and the paper is not left as the heat barrier. Also, fully-cured latex paint forms a continuous plastic layer, which is resistant to heat up to 210° C (410° F) which is three times higher than the maximum wall temperature above a Linear Convector.

      We have had continuous, long-term testing running on a drywall application for over a year now, which is equivalent to approximately four years of normal operation. In this time we have not observed any change in the characteristics of the wall construction. Simply stating that the product is CSA approved is only part of the assurance we can provide you, and we would add that this product would not be on the market if Dimplex ourselves did not believe 100% in its ability to provide homeowners with safe, long-term operation.

  • Adam Ogden on February 15th, 2013 at 10:56pm

    I have very much enjoyed the LPC heaters I have installed so far and like Richard noted above would be very interested in a product with remote monitoring features. IP based monitoring and controls would be ideal.

    I would also like to know if Dimplex is planning a Connex based thermostat that would allow me to control and zone my non LPC heaters with the with the Connex central control that I am currently using. The heaters i would like to integrate with the connex system are my Dimplex under cabinet (toe kick) heater and my newer wall mounted PLX Series heaters.

    Thanks!

    • Karyn on February 25th, 2013 at 2:08pm

      Hi Adam

      We’re very glad to hear that you’re enjoying your LPC heaters. We do see remote monitoring as one of the next logical steps for CONNEX. Also, we are looking at ways to integrate CONNEX technology into other parts of our product line. Part of what makes the LPC work so well is that the “active” temperature sensor located in the cold air intake of the heater. That does however make it difficult to offer CONNEX as a “bolt-on” solution for existing products, so it is more likely that CONNEX will be integral to any new products, similar to the LPC heater.

      Stay tuned and thank you very much for choosing Dimplex!

  • Joseph Schreck on February 20th, 2013 at 5:05pm

    I just purchased a LPC4015W31 Linear Convector and DPCRWS Wireless Control from F.N. Cuthbert Inc and installed last evening. I’m having trouble synchronizing the LPC with the Remote. The LPC works fine with its onboard thermostat. I have followed the instructions exactly to synchronize the two per instruction sheet and also as posted on your website (push the “V” on the remote verses “any key” on the instruction sheet) but to no avail. I have set the LPC for 50F and have the remote set at 70F. The LPC will not respond. Please advise. Thank you.

    • Karyn on March 1st, 2013 at 5:02pm

      Hi Joseph

      I have spoken with one of our engineers regarding the synchronization of the remote to the heaters, he believes it might be a timing problem as you are doing all the right steps. I have been advised that the V on the DPCRWS (remote) needs to be pushed within 5 seconds or so of the LPC being put into synchronization mode. Give this a try and if it does not work, let me know and I will have someone from our customer service department contact you. Thanks for posting this, it is great to hear feedback from our customers as it helps us to understand some of the difficulties that might arise, due to your post we are working on a video that shows the synchronization process.

  • Ron Crampton on February 24th, 2013 at 12:56am

    I have a 1250watt unit installed in my cabin. The cabin temperature was -10C today when I arrived (Feb 22, 2013). The heater would not work. The line voltage was 235 V at the heater connection wires. I heated the room up with a plug in heater. When the temperature inside the room reached about +10C, the baseboard heater started working. Is this new technology susceptible to extreme cold?

    • Karyn on February 25th, 2013 at 5:30pm

      Hi Ron

      Thanks for your question regarding the freeze point cut out. In February of 2012, we started changing the units to a lower freeze point cutout so the product could be used in extreme cold temperatures as you mention. I have asked our Customer Service department to contact you via the e-mail you provided regarding your unit. They will ask you some questions about your unit (when you bought it, model number, serial number etc.) and may be able to provide you with a replacement cutout so this does not continue to be an issue for you. Please look for an e-mail from them in the near future, if you would like to contact them directly, the fastest way is through out “Contact Us” section of our website http://www.dimplex.com/en/contact_us.

  • Kevin Fuller on February 25th, 2013 at 3:06am

    Hi Karyn,

    Thanks for the speedy response, I’m sold. Picked an LPC2500W today.

    Purchased from Home Depot, Port Coquitlam, BC. Feb. 24,2013.
    Model # 6001610360.
    CAT # PC6025W31.
    No Serial # on outside of carton or the unit itself.

    a) Can you please confirm to me from the above info. that this 2500W unit does not have the Humming / Buzz problems associated with the initial production runs of these LPC 2500W units?

    b) Of course now I find that the 240VAC feed wire is on the left hand side of the existing unit. Do you have any solutions to wiring the unit from the left hand side, or is it critical that the 240VAC feed wire enters from the right hand side of the unit.

    Cheers
    Kev

    • Karyn on March 1st, 2013 at 4:01pm

      Hi Kevin

      I apologize for the delay in getting back to you, I wanted to confirm with our Quality Assurance Manager before I responded to your question regarding the humming noise, to make sure I was providing you with the correct information. The initial production run where we had humming and/or buzzing noises were only for our LC line of products and did not affect the LPC products. All LPC products were built with the Stainless Steel elements, which is what we switched to on the LC product line to eliminate the humming noises, so there should not be any problem with the units you have purchased.

      With regards to the wiring on the unit, the wire does need to enter from the right hand side of the heater because the controls are located in this end, however we have included a channel underneath the unit that allows you to use the left hand enclosure as a junction box and run the wire to the right hand side for connection to the controls.

      Thanks for supporting Dimplex and enjoy your new heater

  • Kevin Fuller on February 28th, 2013 at 5:02am

    HI Karyn,

    Further to my comment above of Feb. 25, 2013.

    Please note the date code for the unit I purchased is 33112D1.

    Cheers
    Kev

  • scott on March 1st, 2013 at 4:42pm

    Hi there,
    I have 2 Linear heaters connected to the same thermostat. They have both work fine for about 5 months, but now one of them does not heat up, the other still wirks fine. I check the connections and everything is fine. Is there anything within the heater like a fuse that I can check, or would it be a problem with the element? What can I do to fox this?

    • Ashley on March 7th, 2013 at 1:58pm

      Hi Scott. Thanks very much for your comment and for getting in touch with us. I checked with one of our technical specialists and he mentioned that if the linear cutout that runs the length of the heater has come out of its clips and is touching the element, or if the element is rotated back and touching the copper cutout capillary, then the unit will not put out much heat or will continually turn off and then turn on again once the element has cooled down. In that case you would want to have an electrician check that all connections and components are intact. But if these do not sound like the issues you are describing and you are unable to get the heater to work, it would be best to contact our customer service department as they will be able to walk you through the problem to help properly diagnose it. Information regarding how to contact our customer service department can be found here: http://www.dimplex.com/en/contact_us, at this time the fastest way to get a response is through e-mail, please ensure when you send the message that you provide your full product and contact details so they can easily get in touch with you. Thanks and have a great day!

  • Bill Lawrence on March 4th, 2013 at 8:08pm

    I have a LPC series 500w I would like to add a LC series to it for the same room…can I?

    Would like the LPC thermostat to run both heaters

    • Ashley on March 7th, 2013 at 2:01pm

      Hi Bill. Thanks very much for getting in touch with us. This is an excellent question. Technically this can be done as long as the sum of both heaters is equal to or less than 2500W. That’s because there’s a component on the circuit board of the LPC called a triac that can handle up to 2500W. However, it is not recommended because the LPC computer is not set up to understand that there is another heater ‘helping’ with heating the room. The LPC has been calibrated to behave with itself only and there are too many variables that can affect the overall performance if another heater is added to the circuit. For example, what if the LC sees a lot of direct sunlight through a window but the LPC is in the shadows? This would result in the LPC turning on and forcing the LC to also be on; this creates a very hot side to the room from the LC. There are many other examples like this. The best setup would be to have two LPC’s in the room so that they can operate independently and create their own micro-zone. This is a huge advantage of our LPC heaters over our competitors. If you would like more information I would recommend contacting our customer service department at 1-800-668-6663 as they will be able to provide you with more detailed recommendations if necessary. Thanks very much and have a great day!

  • Randy on March 11th, 2013 at 11:20pm

    I bought one of these new heaters just before xmas. I have it installed on one of your programable thermostats. The heater works fine. However, my BCHydro electricity bill has increased by $100 per month! The thermostat is set to 20 degrees from 6pm-11pm and 16 degrees all other times. Is this normal?

    • Ashley on March 14th, 2013 at 2:06pm

      Hi Randy, thanks very much for your feedback. I’m glad to hear that the heater is working well for your needs. We did a little bit of calculating using BCHydro’s electricity rates and we don’t think that this heater should cause this kind of jump in electrical cost under normal circumstances. What wattage is your heater? You would only see that kind of increase if you were running our largest unit (2500 watts) 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, at maximum output. Given the number of hours a day you are running the unit, we would expect to see a maximum monthly increase of approximately $26. Even that calculation is only true if the heater is running at maximum output for the entire five hours a day that you are running the unit – typically a unit that has been sized appropriately for the room will cycle on and off once the room it is in has been heated up adequately, so the operating cost should be much lower than the $26.

      I checked with our technical specialists who suggested that one issue may be that the programmable control for the heater has not been properly synchronized, assuming you are using an LPC heater with a wireless CX-MPC controller. This would mean that the heater is not running according to the schedule you have mentioned. To verify this, take the control over to the heater and manually increase the temperature to a higher setting. Within about three seconds, the display on the heater should light up and show the new temperature that was entered on the control. If that doesn’t happen then the two are not synchronized, and you should follow the steps to synchronize the heater and controller in the owner’s manual.

      If none of these issues apply, or you are still having difficulties, please don’t hesitate to call our customer service line at 1-800-668-6663 and they can help you to troubleshoot this issue. Thanks very much and I hope this response helps with your heater.

  • gary on April 3rd, 2013 at 4:11pm

    During on of the posts, you state vinly should be 20″ above an LC. What has been the experience with heavy vinly wall paper which typically would go down to and be cut in around the unit. Will the vinyl melt or shink, etc. and has there been any experience with the wallpaper paste drying out and losing its bond? I’m thinking of putting in a small LC unit as supplemental head on the outside wall of a bathroom. Thanks.

    • Ashley on April 23rd, 2013 at 7:24pm

      Hi Gary! Apologies for the delay in replying to your post, it was accidentally marked as spam. To answer your question, it is very important that you use high quality vinyl wallpaper, and to be sure that the product is fully cured according to the wallpaper manufacturer’s directions before installing your LC heater unit. If you are putting in a small LC unit, so long as you follow these recommendations you should be fine to proceed. If you would like more information I encourage you to give us a call at our customer service number, which is 800-668-6663. Thanks and have a great day.

  • marco on April 27th, 2013 at 11:55pm

    I aplaud the new technologies,ideas,methods you guys patented. If I set your new 4 zoned thermostat(wich is a brilliant discovery) for 6am-8am at 21C. 8am-4pm at 15. 4pm-10pm at 21-10pm-6am at 15 for zone number 1 wich include the 2 children rooms. Can the children override the zoned thermostat with the lpc series built in thermostat ? if yes is their a time limit that the built in thermostat would override the zoned thermostat?

    • Ashley on May 3rd, 2013 at 2:44pm

      Hi Marco! Thanks very much for your feedback, I will forward it to our design and engineering teams. With regards to your question, the answer is yes, it is absolutely possible to override the zoned thermostat with the built in thermostat on each unit. If you raise or lower the temperature on an individual unit, that temperature will override the zone setting for that heater for the remainder of the cycle time. So, if for example you raised the temperature in your child’s bedroom from 15 to 18 at 8pm, that setting would hold true until the next cycle temperature kicks in at 10pm, raising the thermostat up to the preprogrammed temperature of 21. I hope this clears up any questions you might have. If you need more information feel free to contact us here, consult our Connex Owners manual: http://dimplex.com/cms/publications/7212190100R02_EN.pdf or give us a call at 1-800-668-6663. Thanks and have a great day!

  • Georges on April 29th, 2013 at 5:17pm

    will these units leave heat stains on pine finished walls.
    how high will the potential problem go.
    we would prefer finishing our walls in pine but have seen some unsightly heatstains at other places

    • Ashley on May 3rd, 2013 at 2:44pm

      Hi Georges, thanks for getting in touch. Our baseboard heater units are compatible for use on wood-paneled walls, so you will be fine to use these on your pine finished walls. The wall-streaking occasionally noted by other users of baseboard heaters is related to dust and other airborne particles being deposited on the wall above the heater. To keep this kind of residue from building up users are advised to wipe down any areas displaying wall-streaking with a warm damp cloth on a consistent basis – once a month would be sufficient. Thanks again for your question and have a great day.

  • Paul on June 25th, 2013 at 2:40pm

    Hi,

    I have these heaters in the bedrooms in my condo and love them and would like to replace the remainder of my 30 year old baseboard heaters with these.

    I have two locations where there is electrical outlets 3 inches above the existing heaters – which currently is not a problem.

    Given the heat output of these heaters, will it be possible (with spacers) to install these units below existing electrical outlets?

    As I said I am in a condo and have steel studs and do not want to have to move an outlet so if this is a problem then probably a no go for these in the remaining areas in my home…

    Thanks
    Paul

    • Ashley on June 25th, 2013 at 7:34pm

      Hi Paul, thanks very much for getting in touch with us. Our baseboard heaters should not be positioned under any electrical outlets, as discussed in the manual: http://dimplex.com/cms/publications/7211700100R12_EN_Website.pdf. If you’d like more information I would suggest getting in touch with our customer service department at 1-800-668-6663, and they will be able to discuss your heating needs in more depth. Thanks and have a great day!

  • Dave on September 7th, 2013 at 5:39pm

    My apologies if this is a dumb question, but can these been installed on top of carpeted floors? All the photos show tiled or wood flooring?

    • Ashley on September 10th, 2013 at 1:33pm

      Hi Dave! There are no dumb questions. It’s absolutely fine to install a baseboard heater on a carpeted floor. Thanks for getting in touch with us!

  • FMMachold on October 10th, 2013 at 5:44pm

    I have purchased a home on Pelee Island that has baseboard heaters (Chromalox, 20+ yrs old) controlled by passive thermostats (now replaced by digital ones). I am very much interested in replacing these older heaters with Dimplex units. The walls are wood, and I intend to use the Optimizer kits for installation. Is the 3/4″ enough of an offset?

    • Ashley on October 23rd, 2013 at 2:39pm

      Hi there, thanks for your comment, and sorry for the delay in replying – this message got stuck in our spam filter. the 3/4″ offset is more than enough for wood-panelled walls. Our products are rated safe for use on wood-panelled walls even without the optimizers by the CSA. Hope this helps answer your question and have a great day!

    • FMMACHOLD on October 24th, 2013 at 2:37pm

      Thanks for the reply. My current set-up involves 1750watts on one wall of windows and 2000watts on the adjacent that forms the corner; the room is 200 sq ft but has a 15ft ceiling. I want to replace one heater with 2500watts, provided the noise in the 2500w units has been fixed, and the second with 500 (or not at all). Opinion?

    • Ashley on October 24th, 2013 at 3:22pm

      Hi! Glad we could help. Given that you’ve got 3750watts currently between your two heaters, I would recommend going for at least a 1000watt heater for the second wall, as this will provide you with adequate heating ability for a room that size, with the extra ceiling heat taken into account (approximately of course). I hope this helps and if you require further assistance our customer support representatives are always available at 1-800-668-6663. Thanks and have a great day!

  • Richard Armstrong on October 15th, 2013 at 11:47pm

    Hi, I asked a question last year about an internet accessible Thermostat for my LPC Heaters (ps, I still really like them and they are working just fine!). I see I am not the only one interested in this feature. Can you give us a rough timeline when this might come out ??

    I purchased a Trane Internet Thermostat for my other place and it works with the “Zwave” protocol and I have to say it has been flawless … Thanks for giving this consideration !

    • Ashley on October 23rd, 2013 at 2:41pm

      Hi Richard, thanks for getting in touch. At this time we are unable to provide a timeline or give specific details on our product development process and schedule, unfortunately. However we appreciate your comments and your continued interest – I will forward your feedback to our product development team, as this kind of comment is incredibly helpful to them. Thanks and have a great day!

  • Darryl on October 16th, 2013 at 10:29pm

    Hi there,

    When installing these baseboard heaters, the holes/knock outs for the electrical wiring at/towards the bottom. With the box in the wall that the electrical wiring is coming out of a few inches off the floor, the heater can’t be mounted directly on the floor – it’s about an inch up on the wall. Can I drill a new hole in the back panel that is higher, so it better lines up with the electrical box and the heaters then rests on the floor, like it was intended? Hope that make sense.
    Or perhaps there is another solution to recommend?

    thanks
    Darryl

    • Ashley on October 23rd, 2013 at 2:44pm

      Hi Darryl, Thanks very much for your comment. My suggestion would be to call our customer service line at 1-800-668-6663, as one of our tech support reps will better be able to help you find a solution for your installation concerns as each situation can vary depending on many factors. Thanks for getting in touch and have a great day!

  • Graeme on December 12th, 2013 at 2:06am

    Hello,

    I recently purchased three 1250W and one 500W LPC baseboards to replace some older baseboards in our suite. Before I go ahead with it, is there any risk in installing these baseboards in a gambrel style building, where the walls angle slightly inwards after about 3′? It sounds like these baseboards heat the walls up quite a bit and I am wondering if the angled walls could compound that, or be an increased fire hazard?

    Regards,

    Graeme

    • Ashley on December 13th, 2013 at 4:23pm

      Hi Graeme, thanks very much for getting in touch with us! Based on our recommended clearance of 14”, installing our LPC heaters 36” (3 feet) under the place where the wall starts to angle should not cause any problems. I’d also like to mention that regardless of the installation, the heaters do not pose a fire hazard. They meet or exceed all CSA/UL safety standards and are designed to stop running if the unit overheats in any way.

      If you have any other questions at all, please feel free to ask them here, or give us a call at 1-800-668-6663 (extension 1105). Thanks again for purchasing Dimplex products – we are very proud of our LC heaters and their ability to heat faster and more efficiently.

  • Pierre Repper on December 12th, 2013 at 6:04pm

    Hi there,

    Last October, I have installed a 1500 watt Dimplex baseboard heater (LC 40″ ) in my bedroom. Like many others here who wrote about this problem, I am severely bothered, each and every night, by the buzzing sound coming from the baseboard. I have read most of the actual posts and your replies mentioned that only 2000 and 2500 watt baseboards are known to have this problem. Well, I can assure you that the 1500 watt baseboards have it too. Maybe the buzzing is lower but it is still really annoying. As for my wall thermostat, it is specified for up to 2500 watts which is far more than sufficient to drive it.

    • Ashley on December 12th, 2013 at 6:43pm

      Hi Pierre, thanks very much for getting in touch with us. Excessive buzzing should not be heard in the normal operation of the unit. In order to correctly diagnose and address the issue, I would recommend that you give us a call at 1-800-668-6663 and one of our customer service representatives will be happy to assist you with troubleshooting. Thanks and I hope this helps! Ashley

  • trevor on January 2nd, 2014 at 2:04am

    Make this Dimplex Multi-zone Programmable CONNEX Controller IP wifi controllable over the internet and you will have a hit product. All the other thermostat vendors for low voltage are releasing IP wifi controllers.

    Many people at their cottage still have baseboard heating. To be able to turn it on over the internet is critical. Great product. I just installed it. So nice to not have to walk around to each baseboard and turn them on, one by one. I’m sure that your customers would pay $100 for wifi controller for connex. The operating system on the multi-zone controller could use a bit of improving. Why not run Android hardware for it. Use raspberry pie hardware or something. So many cheap powerful CPU controllers out there to work with. You development team could easily develop, for example a 2 for 1 thermostat. That supports Connex controller wireless protocol and standard low voltage controller all in one. Wifi enabled. That way you can sell to both electric baseboard customers and to low voltage HVAC customers.

  • trevor on January 2nd, 2014 at 2:09am

    What wireless protocol is being used for connex LPC communication to and from the thermostat? You should open up an API to the LPC controller. Let the open source community develop for you. You would be amazed at the interesting work that would get done. Some of the most successful products out there were because they opened up API and source code. Just look at how many Linksys WRT54G wireless routers were sold because people were able to developed things to work with it and the firmware.

    • Ashley on January 13th, 2014 at 4:31pm

      Hi Trevor, thanks very much for your feedback, you have some extremely interesting suggestions. I will pass your comments along to our Product Development team, feedback like yours is very useful for us and helps to drive future product innovation. Thanks and have a great day!

  • Gary on January 24th, 2014 at 1:35am

    I recently retro fitted my old dinged up 30 year old Westinghouse Baseboard heaters throughout my house. I wish I would’ve known Dimplex had such high wattage baseboard heaters in a compact size. I went with Ouellet baseboards which were smaller and considered high density compared to the older ones. Most electric baseboard heaters are 250 watts per foot. ouellet’s are 275 watts per foot and Dimplex even higher wattage per foot. As far as people complaining that the wall gets hot, they get hot with my Ouellet brand too. I purchased triac proportional thermostats that pulsate the electric current to the heaters so they are rarely on at full blast. I suggest doing the same with the Dimplex brand. If your heater is the correct wattage for the space, they shouldn’t run too often to make the wall extremely hot. Also for anything to ignite the temp would have to go higher than 450f, the heat from an electric baseboard is a lot lower than that. I just wish I would’ve known Dimplex had these amazing heaters a few months ago. Too late now… :(

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  • Jody on September 4th, 2014 at 11:04pm

    I have a customer who is thinking installing the Dimplex 500w heaters in some housing instead of the Ouellet 500w bbh’s.
    Do you have any comparison data that proves that the Dimplex is more energy efficient?
    ie, heat up time, cost savings

    • Michael Elgamal on October 20th, 2014 at 6:01pm

      We need to understand if you are thinking of installing the Linear Convector (LC) or Linear Proportional Convector (LPC). The energy efficiency with the LC product, as with any heater without built-in controls, is determined by the thermostat that is controlling it. So whether it is a Dimplex or Ouellet unit, the thermostat will dictate the energy efficiency.

      The LPC product on the other hand, which includes an energy-efficient built-in electronic thermostat, will save energy compared to a conventional heater and thermostat. We don’t have any comparison data versus Ouellet, but we have test data that reports that the LPC is 33% more energy efficient compared to our previous BN series baseboard and a mechanical TS321 thermostat.

      We do have test data that shows that both the LC and LPC heat nearly twice as fast as both Stelpro and Ouellet baseboards. We can send an abbreviated version of that report.

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  • Todd on September 29th, 2014 at 8:09am

    Hello. I have conventional dimplex heaters that were installed in my condo by the developer when it was built in 2003. I am going to be doing a reno and was thinking of replacing the old ones with LC heaters. The two units (1000W each) that are located in the living room are each at the bottom of windows (with metal frames).

    Three questions if you don’t mind:
    1. There will be vinyl roller blinds at the top of the windows – approximately 8 feet above the heater. Wanted to check that this will be fine and they won’t get scorched, also I am guessing that I can’t have the blinds rolled down when the heaters are on, as that would bring them right to the height of the top of the heater.

    2. I have a sofa that backs onto one of the two heaters. How far away does it need to be from this type of heater to be safe?

    3. Given the size of the current 1000W units, I could probably move up to something larger. I find that the current heaters have a tough time keeping it warm when the temperature drops below freezing. Assuming the electrical can handle it, moving up to high wattage units would increase the output and theoretically have them running less of the time right?

    Thanks for your help in advance :)

    • Michael Elgamal on October 20th, 2014 at 6:08pm

      1. 20″ clearance is required to overhanging vinyl objects while the heaters are running

      2. This should be confirmed from the installation guidelines – I think it’s about 6″

      3. Your 1,000 watt units are likely around 48″ long. You could replace these with 2,000 watt LC’s, which are 50″ long, but only if the circuit and wiring will allow, keeping mind that you also need a percentage of safety capacity on the circuit to avoid the chance of overloading – this is based on electrical code. We recommend you consult with a licensed electrician if you are unsure of any of these specifications. Otherwise you could simply replace the existing heaters with the equivalent LC. Even if you match the wattage, you should find that the LC’s are more effective at heating your space because of the faster airflow (up to 42%) than a conventional baseboard.

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